“What is Xul?” - The Story of Xul Beer Co.
Depending on who--and where--you ask, you're bound to receive a few answers. If you consult Urban Dictionary, “Xul” is described as the Sumerian adjective for both “great” and “evil.” It is also a nod to the pop culture consumed by the founders, a play on a necromancer character from the Diablo video game series, and a clever take on the demon dog in “Ghostbusters.” Whichever way you spin it, Xul is wickedly good at what they set out to do.
Co-founder Brad West and brewer Bentley Blackshear met at a beer fest in 2018, and in 2019 were already forming plans for a brewery. Both men had already wet their feet in the Knoxville craft beer scene: Brad had been an opening investor in another Knoxville brewery, and Bentley had brewed both at Crafty Bastard and Bearden Beer Market. Bentley had also been a guide for Knox Brew Tours and worked as a sales representative for another Tennessee brewery. Tara Thacker, friend of both Bentley & Brad, is the other co-founder of the three-headed monster that is Xul and one of the driving forces behind their merchandise and taproom operations.
Xul’s epic merchandise wall
Inspired by their love of nostalgic cinema, music, and their extensive travels to taprooms across the country, their beers and design choices reflect the high-energy, up-to-the-minute vibe they want their brand to convey. Their taproom marries regal colors and design elements (faux velvet couches, elegant chandeliers) with movie posters pulled straight from one of the owner’s personal collections. Playful elements such as the life-sized Gremlin rides atop a taxidermied goat head with a pink goatee (a nod to one of the owner’s favorite late musicians, Dimebag Darrel of Pantera) hangs above the bar. The taproom space is equally dark & moody, while also cheeky and mischievous.
A couple enjoying a pint below the Xul logo near the front entrance
Xul knows their audience, and leans into that love of nostalgia with their beer offerings. Their adjunct-heavy stout series VHS has featured renditions such as Rocky Road and Fluffernutter. Indulgence is the name of the game with a good majority of their beer offerings: gravity defying pastry stouts & barleywines, super fruited sours, and aggressively dry hopped IPAs. While the taproom itself is designed to be a showpiece, it is the beers themselves that are the true show-stopper, and as such are treated with the utmost attentiveness. Three temperature controlled taplines offer beers at optimum temperatures for immediate enjoyment (Pilsners & Sours served at 38 degrees, Hazy IPAs at 42 degrees, and Stouts served at 52 degrees). This attention to detail carries over to their to-go product as well, with a variety of cans and bottles available for off-premise consumption. In fact, their Ivy IPA won a national design contest for can art.
A peek into Xul’s brewhouse
Nothing about Xul is traditional, and their brewing equipment stands up to the challenge of producing these beer varieties. For example, their 20bbl mash tun allows for easier brewing of big imperial stouts. Brewer Bentley Blackshear prides himself on these adjunct-heavy stouts and several pieces of equipment that can be found in their brewing space reflect this passion. For example, the kegs have especially wide ports, optimal for keg-aging stouts with copious amounts of adjuncts. A mobile dosing tank allows for more convenient, and less messy, infusions of ingredients such as toasted coconut flakes.
Xul’s patio during an East TN sunset
Their fermentation capacity currently sits at 100bbls, but plans are already underway to increase capacity. Their original plan allowed for more distribution, but the reception has been so overwhelmingly positive that a near immediate expansion is necessary. Their current taproom & brewery space encompasses the old Carmichael’s car showroom (appropriate, for the showpiece brewery their space has become). Thankfully, storage to the back of the building allows for growth without having to move out of the current space. Future prospective markets include the midwest (Wisconsin, Indiana), regional (Georgia, the Carolinas), eventually New York, and dreams of someday shipping overseas. In the meantime, Xul has become a destination brewery, attracting fans to visit from near and far. A counter behind the bar keeps a live update of their Instagram likes, and acts as proof that Xul’s explosive growth shows no signs of stopping. Rest assured...if you didn’t know who Xul was before, you certainly will.
Author Candace P. (left) at Xul’s soft opening with Charles Reese (right)
